MissViaggio
in Croatia

September/october 2021

More than 20 years ago, my family spent a single summer in Croatia. It was a horrible trip, which is why Croatia had been on some sort of black list for me ever since. This year (2021), however, I decided it was finally time to make my peace and make some new memories. So let me take you on a three-weeks road trip through Croatia.

Week 1 - From Zadar to Zagreb

When I started my trip, my itinerary was almost blank. The only thing I knew was that I would spend the first two days in Zadar. If you'd ask me, it is the perfect city to start your holidays in Croatia.

Zadar is full of historic sites.

Gradually, I added a visit to Plitvice Lakes National Park where I got to explore one of the most beautiful places on earth (you will know exactly what I am talking about when you see the pictures).

To escape the bad weather in central Croatia and on the coast, I headed north to Zagreb for the weekend. Even though the capital is far away from the coast, I immediately fell in love with the city and its people. And for all celiacs among us, I found a few cafés and restaurants in Zagreb offering gluten-free dishes (click here to read more).

Zagreb took my heart by storm.

Gluten-Free Traveling in Croatia

Gluten-free travel is always a challenge. But it seems that people have become more aware of the celiac diet in recent years, making it easier and easier to travel the globe. Croatia is no exception in this regard.

Learn Some Basics of the Croatian Language

It's always useful to learn some basic Croatian phrases like thank you, hi or good bye. So, here we are:

  • thank you - hvala

  • good day - dober dan

  • good bye - dovidenja

  • hi - haj

  • hello - bok

  • yes - da

  • no - ne

  • please - molim

Knowing these simple words, you will feel a bit better prepared to blend in and when you meet the locals.

Week 2 - From Hvar to Dubrovnik

There is this saying that once you have been to the island of Hvar, you will always come back. After three days on this island I believe it is true. Hvar is so beautiful and the people there so warm that I already got a little homesick when I left.

Vrboska is a lovely town.

Fortunately, Split was the perfect city to comfort me over my Hvar homesickness. It has many historical sites which are worth visiting and, in addition (and almost more important for me), some places that offer delicious gluten-free dishes.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia.

My next stop was Biokovo Nature Park, just an hours south of Split, where I hiked to Vošac peak, which offers a magnificient view over the islands of Hvar and Brač. I ended my day with a nice swim on one of the many beaches on the Makarska Riviera.

Makarska is the perfect city to stay when exploring the Biokovo Nature Park.

I continued driving south towards Dubrovnik. But before I finally got there, I squeezed in another island, Mljet, and stayed two nights in Soline which is right the middle of a beautiful small national park. But let me tell you this - the way to the apartment was a hell of an adventure.

Mljet National Park is habitat of many wild animals.

Why Did I Choose Croatia as this Year's Destination?

Well, the reason goes way back - to the summer of 1997, to be exact. Back then, my parents were determined to take us to a country other than Italy, Germany, or Austria and decided on Croatia. But this trip turned out to be a nightmare. First, it took us more than 20 hours to get to Punat, Krk. Second, it was unbearably hot (more than 40 degrees) and the apartment had no air conditioning. Third, my mum cut her foot when she went swimming without wearing bathing shoes. And finally, I broke my little toe playing tag with my brothers. Taken all this together, we decided not to come back anytime soon. Now, more than 20 years later, it seems the right time to make new memories and forget the summer of 97.

Week 3 - From Dubrovnik to Šibenik

After two weeks I finally arrived in Dubrovnik - and I couldn't help but love this city despite the crowds of tourists that flood it every day. Dubrovnik is simply beautiful and has a lot to offer - starting from monumental sites to Mount Srđ and gluten-free food.

From Mount Srđ you have an exceptional view of the Old Town.

Trogir is definitely a Dalmatian city that should not be missing from any itinerary. For me, it offered the perfect combination of medieval charm and coastal town with a beautiful waterfront promenade. And guess what? Some restaurants also offer gluten-free dishes, so I felt right at home.

Trogir is just a few kilometers north of Split.

My visit to Krka National Park was just another highlight on my trip through Croatia. I hiked the educational trail from Oziđana pećina cave – Roški Slap to Stinice where I took the boat to the monastery island.

Krka National Park is of exceptional beauty.

Yes, I hardly believe it myself but Šibenik was already my last stop on this journey. So I took a last full day to enjoy summer, sun, sites, and sea.

Šibenik has four fortresses.

Good to Know

Traveling by car: Croatia has a toll collect system similar to Italy and Spain. The week before my trip I bought the vignettes for Austria and Slovenia as well as tickets for the two Austrian tunnels (Tauern and Karawanken).