MissViaggio in Jeju Island

Day 7 - The Islands' Volcanic Past

The next morning, after a snatch of sleep, my thirst for adventure is back. I am ready to discover the island listed as a member of the canon of 7 with my nippy little car. Hahaha. I look up a destination nearby: the Manjanggul Cave, the island's most famous lava tube and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011.

Walking down the steps into the cave of which only a small part is open to the public is like traveling back in time. Lava flows themselves have created this almost perfectly rounded underground passageways. The heat of the lava stream has thereby partially melted the rock of the ceiling forming small stalactites. I've never seen anything like it - amazing.

Only a few ground lights illuminate the path further into the cave - due to yesterday's rainy weather it's like running the gauntlet to avoid the puddles while constantly being hit by falling water drops. Along the trail signs inform visitors of interesting aspects of the cave, like the lava lines on the wall which show how much lava once has flowed through the tunnel.

At the end of the trail is the main attraction, the largest lava column in the world (7.6 meters in hight). I learn that it was created when lava has flowed down through the ceiling and solidified.

Next thing to do for me is climbing the Seongsan Ilbuchong (= Sunrise Peak), the most spectacular volcanic mountain on Jeju-do. The tuff cone was formed about 5000 years ago and is now dominating the eastern seaboard like a gigantic bulwark. The way up to the summit is arduous, but worth every step because it exposes the huge bowl-like crater and provides me with the most beautiful view over the sea and the island. It is said that grain was once grown in the crater, but today it is just covered with reeds.

Down by the sea, middle-aged Korean women are sitting on stools cleaning seashells. They belong to the Haenyeo (= female divers) who dive for clams, crabs and abalons in the sea without oxygen equipment. Some of them can easily hold their breath for two minutes and dive up to 20 meters deep. Originally this work was done by men, but when they left the island to escape their duties in the 17th century, women took over the job. The tradition has been designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016 which is why they give demonstrations every day at 1:30 pm and 3 pm.

Day 8 - Crater, Water, and a Beach

Another beautiful day is dawning. Only four kilometres of my guesthouse is the Sangumburi Crater, which was formed by an explosion without lava and is therefore one of the rarest in the world. What also makes Sangumburi unique is that it is the only crater on the island that is in the lowlands, surrounded by fields of silver grass and behind them the green expanses of Jeju-do as well as Hallasan mountain. Because it looks so picturesque (it really does!), Sangumburi has been a filming location for Korean films and telenovelas several times.

Later this morning, I visit the Jeongbang Falls, which drop steeply from a height of 23 meters and then flow straight into the ocean - unique in Asia. Not only does it look impressive, it also produces a lot of spray - very pleasant at 24 degrees and pure sunshine. Knowing that Jeju Island is famous for its citrus fruits I buy a mandarin slush. Yum!

I am looking for a supermarket to buy fruit and water when I meet a young Korean whose parents have recently moved from Korea's capital Seoul to Jeju Island. When he realizes that I am from Germany, he tells me that he has also learned a little German and starts to count to ten to proof it. Thumbs up. He recommends me to visit the Seogwipo Village Market where you can find fruit and vegetables as well as seeds, clothes, baskets, brooms, and local specialties. Though I didn't bargain, I feel pretty cool buying seven bananas and four tangerines.

I drive further south to see the Jusangjeolli Cliffs, impressive stone pillars created when lava erupted into the sea and solidified. A narrow footbridge leads to the viewing platform right above the cliffs which is hopelessly overcrowded with people. I feel quite uncomfortable and can hardly enjoy the natural spectacle - a shame because the hexagonal and cubic shaped cliffs are absolutely magnificent. I can't help it but leave after ten minutes.

Right around the corner is Jungmun Beach, a popular spot for surfers and according to TripAdvisor one of the most beautiful beaches on the entire island. That I want to see with my very eyes, so I jet further west. What leaps out at me is the color of the sand. It's light brown with black and red grains. I like it a lot, even though I think I've seen more beautiful beaches in Sardinia, Italy. Still, I just sit on one of the black rocks watching the surfers and regretting that I have to leave tomorrow morning when there is so much more to see, like the O'sulloc tea fields or Mount Hallasan National Park.