MissViaggio in Busan

Day 10 - Tiles and Temple

After breakfast I head to Busan's most colorful district, Gamcheon. Its origin dates back to the beginning of the 20th century even so it was only officially founded in 1958. Ten years ago, a group of students had the idea of giving the historic district an artistic makeover. They started painting facades, decorating railings and tiling stairs with fancy tiles so that Gamcheon now somehow resembles colored Lego bricks. Those who work their way through the winding streets will be rewarded with great views. By the way: Each house is built a little offset so that they don't block each other's view.

The best part of my trip to Gamcheon is that I happen to meet Toqy, a young German, who is solo-traveling as well. We immediately hit it off and decide to spend the day together. A great decision!

In Need of Contemplation

Nestled on Busan's cliffy coastline, Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is one of the most impressive religious complexes in South Korea and the only one who faces the sea (usually Buddhist temples are located in the mountains). It's easy to imagine that this attracts visitors from all over Asia. So it's bus loads of people who follow the 108 steps that snake through the complex. The most impressive part aside from the location itself is the statue of the Goddess of Mercy. It's huge and pretty golden and I've seen nothing alike it anywhere in Asia before!

It's nearly eight o'clock when we sally to our last stop, Gwangalli Beach. Residents and tourists alike love to take in the splendid lights of Gwangan Bridge, Korea's answer to San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge. Every nights it is illuminated by thousands of LED lamps that showcase at least two light shows (every full hour from eight o'clock). We are lucky enough to see some local musicians perform. It couldn't be more romantic. We love it. Before we head back to the hotel, we decide to spend another day together. It will be the last day for Toqy as she is leaving for Seoul the day after tomorrow.

Day 11 - Temple and Treats

High up in the mountains is a Buddhist haven, Beomeosa Temple, which is - because of its seclusion - the perfect spot to experience monastic routines. From the time of its foundation in the 7th century and even during the Korean War in the 1950s the passion for Buddhist practice has never waned. At times 1,000 monks lived and devotedly prayed at Beomeosa. Today, locals and foreigners can sign up for the Templestay program to learn about Buddhist services, tea ceremonies (Dado), meditation, or chanting.

We won't attend the program, but still hope to find some inspiration and inner peace on a stroll through Beomeosa. First thing we come across is Jogyemun Gate welcoming visitors since ages. It is Beomeosa's one-pillar gate - because when looking from the side it seems that its lavishly decorated roof stands on one pillar only (instead of four). Pretty fancy.

Next up is the Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings (though none of them looks really heavenly!) which is installed to ward of evil spirits. Passing another two gates, we are finally standing in the inner courtyard observing monks headed to ceremonies and visitors eager to explore Beomeosa. A friendly guides brings to our attention that there will be free lunch at 11:30. Toqy hasn't had breakfast yet, so yes, we will accept the kind offer. There is rice with all kinds of vegetables. Since I don't know how the vegetables are seasoned (with soy sauce or not), I just stick with plain rice. Better safe than sorry.

In the afternoon we take time to visit Gujke market (gujke = international) to hide from the bad weather (it's raining again). Gujke market was initiated after the Korean War by refugees who set up stalls to earn a living. Today, it is one of the largest markets in Korea. Every alley is full of stalls, and the transition to Bupyeong Market, Kkangtong Market, and other smaller markets is practically fluid.

Day 12 - Beautiful Cliff-Lined Bay

I would probably have missed Taejongdae park on my visit to Busan if it wasn't for Toqy. She told me about this beautiful spit of land famous for its geological formations and hidden temples in the forests and encouraged me to drive out there. So here I am today, on my way to the rocky coast looking forward to wandering around a park covered with thick pine tree forests and taking in the salty ocean air.

It is really beautiful. Heavy fog browses over the trees whose leaves are already turning yellow, red, and brown. Every now and then you can look down at the sea and the waves bouncing foamily against layers of solid rock. That is pure recreation though I find the humidity exhausting. I rest at Yeongdo Lighthouse overlooking the sea und unfortunately not knowing that a dinosaur footprint has been found on a rock nearby. WOW! That's how old this place is.

When it starts raining again after, I return to the hotel with lots of new impressions (like pebble beach and Taejongsa Temple).

Day 13 - A Stroll Through the Park

Check-out is at noon giving me time to do a last stroll through the neighborhood and exploring Busan Citizens Park. As you might know by now, I'm always up for nature and walks. The park was rebuilt in 2006 and sets new standards in Korea. Why is that? Well first of all, there are more than a million trees and bushes here all monitored using RFID technology. Second, Busan Citizens Park have the highest rate of surveillance cameras (92 in total) I have ever seen. If they record anything unusual, park management or police will be informed immediately.

Apart from that, it has a water lily pond with large fish in it, several fountains (and water performances at different times), playgrounds for children as well as work-out zones for adults. On the way back, I buy a kilo of nectarines from a street vendor. They are supposed to get me through my first time in Japan.