Next destination is the Sapporo TV Tower, the landmark in the heart of Sapporo. If you have time, you can enjoy the entirety of Sapporo from the observation deck 90 meters above ground. I save the 720 yen and prefer to watch the steel giant only from a distance.

One block north of Odori Park and Sapporo TV Tower is the Clock Tower, another landmark reminiscent of Sapporo's early days. Its wooden style architecture is typical of American houses built during colonization. Today, it houses Japan's oldest intact tower clock and a museum.

The Botanic Garden of the University of Hokkaido is not exactly an insider tip, but still a place of peace and serenity. It is home to thousands of plants - more than 4,000 native to Hokkaido alone. Aside from that, it features Hokkaido's oldest museum, which exhibits the only specimens of the taro, a husky who come of the Ezo wolf. Believe it or not, the two animals look amazingly alike.

Strolling around the Botanic Garden with its numerous flowers, trees (for instance Sapporo's oldest lilac tree planted around 1890!), and bushes is charming. Don't forget to see the greenhouses that house not only rare Hokkaido ferns, but also beautiful orchids and carnivorous plants. I have its rooms all to myself and really enjoy not being rushed, but rather bathing in the beauty of the plants.

A Hike a Day keeps the Doctor Away

At the summit of Mount Moiwa (531m) you have one of the best view outs over Sapporo city. The easiest way to get there is by cable car. But Karen is a walking enthusiast like me, so we hike up. The trail starts somewhat hidden behind a parking lot (at Jikeikai Hospital) and then meanders through the forest. It's about 2.9 kilometers to the top, which is well manageable. We don't see a lot of people on the trail, but everybody is friendly und we are always ready with a "konnichiwa". Every now and then, we find stone Buddhist statues along the way that are believed to guide and protect travelers. I like the idea very much.

Halfway to the top we come to a junction with a bench where some Australians make a pit stop as if they were knowing that the last part of the way is the challenging one. We join them for a minute before continuing the steep serpentine road uphill. Believe me, we are more than happy, when we leave the forest behind and reach the top. The view is really spectacular.

By the way: Mount Moiwa is also a great spot for lovers. Situated in the heart of the deck there is a lover's bell. It is believed that when couples ring the bell together, happiness will follow their future.

Dinner at Lohas

Not every gluten free restaurant you read about online exists. Karen and I learn it the hard way. After taking the cable car down into town and walking for another half an hour, we have to find the chosen location closed down. Oh man, this is so frustrating. We are both hungry and the nearest restaurant, Lohas, is another two kilometers away! As if we didn't walk enough today!?? Luckily, Lohas really makes up for the earlier disappointment. We are the only guests and enjoy delicious soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles) with gluten free soy sauce, a fresh salad, rice with beans and sesame, a banana chocolate raw cake. Not to forget a fine cup of hibiscus tea. I am reconciled.

Day 16 - A Day Trip from Sapporo

For getting a taste of volcanic Japan, you can't do anything better than a day trip to Shikotsu-Toya National Park. The three-hour bus ride is quite enjoyable because you drive through the mountainous hinterland and valleys characterized by farming before the landscape changes again and Lake Toya lies in front of you. It's beautiful.

For me the most memorable part is a visit to Mount Usu - a fairly active volcano that erupted four times in the last century alone (most recently in 2000). The Usuzan cable car takes me to the observation deck. The view is stunning: to the left is deep blue Lake Toya, straight ahead is the Showa Shinzan, with its 75 years one of the youngest mountains in Japan. The reddish brown mountain dome is still active and constantly emits white smoke.

If you want to get a better view of the Usu Crater Basin, you can do a short hike (with 300 steps!) along the craters edge, which takes about an hour there and back. The path offers some stunning views along the crater but also Lake Toya and the Pacific coast. The beauty is breathtaking. At short distance away, I finally see that Mount Usu is venting steam. When heading back, I almost feel saddish to leave this amazing part of nature. If I ever came back, I would most likely stay the night, watch the fireworks over Lake Toya like they do every night in summer, and do another hike. Back in Sapporo, I grab something to eat, head back to the hotel, and hit the sack.