Adjacent to Meiji Shrine is the Inner Garden, a place of quiet in this never-sleeping megacity. Small trails lead through the pristine natural landscape featuring water lily ponds, a tea house, and a well. One of the most beautiful spots is the south pond where the emperor himself once fished. Every saison offers its own attraction - i.e., irises bloom in June or in fall the leaves change color and transform the garden into a sea of red, orange, and yellow.

While watching the crowds periodically inundating the crossing, a young student, Kao, walks up to me and offers me a tour to Ota, one of Tokyo's lesser-known wards. The reason is that she is writing her Bachelor thesis about how to get people off the beaten paths. Well, I had no plans of what to do anyway, so I opt for the alternative Tokyo tour with Kao and her friend Shiori, both from Yokohama. It's pretty much fun! They take me to the Art Factory Jonanjima, where Kimiyo Mishima's artwork is on display. Her sculptural installations covering themes like information overload and the fear of modern times are monumental, impressive, and enlightening.

Bathing in Holy Smoke

Forty-five minutes later I go ashore to explore Asakusa on foot. It has all these beautifully decorated shopping streets like Nakamise covering stalls selling local specialty and souvenirs. The main attraction, however, is Sensō-ji temple, probably the most popular Buddhist temple across the country and one of the oldest religious places in the city (the temple was originally built in the 7th century and rebuilt in the 1950s after WWII).

Year after year, millions of visitors come to honor Kannon, the goddess of compassion. Apart from praying, many of them bathe in holy smoke that comes from the jokoro (=incense burner) right in front the temple. It is said that the smoke has a healing effect.

Rikigu-en Gardens

To best way to end a day in one of the world's busiest cities is visiting Rikigu-en Gardens, according to Lonely Planet one of the most beautiful gardens in Tokyo. It is crisscrossed by walking paths that lead over old stone bridges, past burbling creeks, and fairylike sceneries inspired by famous poems. In the center of the garden is a tea house where you can enjoy matcha overlooking the beautiful landscape.

After sunset I take the train back to Shibuya, because I heard about the cafe littlebird that offers 100% gluten free dishes. Be warned: it's hard to find as it is hidden in a small alley off the main street. I opt for the ramen with lots of vegetables which is delicious. Unfortunately, I am full and have to skip dessert.

What else is there to know about the Imperial Palace or its grounds? Well, the palace consists of seven connected buildings but you only see a fraction of them. The square in front of the Imperial Palace, is covered with some fancy soft stones, meaning that if you fell, you will not be seriously injured (no, I didn't test and prove it). And, the emperor keeps silkworms, which he feeds with mulberries, and he grows rice for sake.

The main park of the palace grounds are the East Gardens which are open to the public. The weirdest and at the same time most beautiful thing to discover: blooming cherry trees. A little online research helps me process my discovery. Obviously, in some parts, cherry blossoms appear twice a year - in spring and in autumn (October to December).