MissViaggio in Switzerland
02 August 2021
Last year, one of my best friends moved to Basel, Switzerland. Nine months later, I finally got the chance to visit her. Read more about my three days filled with sightseeing, hiking, and fine food.
Day 1 - Arrival in Basel
When I was a kid, we often drove past Basel on our way to Italy. However, we never made a stopover. So for me this visit is a first - and I readily admit that firsts are always special. Sometimes it is as if you get butterflies in your stomach: you feel a bit nervous and at the same time you are full of enthusiasm in light of the adventure ahead. So, Basel, here I come.
Since my friend Stefanie has to work, I have the first afternoon off to walk the streets of Basel and immerse myself into the city. And let me tell you this: Basel is beautiful and easily explored on foot. Find my top five landmarks below.
1. Old Town
Strolling around Old Town with its narrow alleyways and century-old houses is a really nice way to spend the afternoon. There is so much to discover like the magnificent Gate of Spalen which is one of the original eight city gates that were part of the outer wall, or the old half-timbered houses in the "Rheinsprung" street, and of course hay mountain - an area that once was the home to many butchers (since there were no cold houses to store meat at that time, the animals had to be fed with hay until they were slaughtered).
2. Town Hall
One of the most eye-catching buildings is Town Hall with its red facades and playful frescoes. It dates back to the 15th century and combines several architectural styles, i.e., Gothic, Renaissance, Late Gothic, and Jugendstil. How fortunate that the building has lasted through the centuries! By the way: City Hall is still the seat of the government and parliament today.
3. Middle Bridge & River Rhine
Standing on the Middle Bridge, you have a stunning view of the city's skyline. If weather allows, you should cross the bridge and sit down on the banks of the Rhine to enjoy the scenery and potentially spot some swimmers who let themselves drift down the river a bit. In summer, it's like the Basel thing to do, Stefanie tells me.
Tip: If you have time, cross the Rhine on the non-motorized wooden ferry.
4. Tinguely Fountain
Tinguely Fountain (or Fasnachtsbrunnen) is one of the most popular landmarks in Basel. Its creator Jean Tinguely designed several strange looking iron-made machine sculptures that would spew out water. It is almost as if the machines are brought back to life. Pretty amazing. I have never seen anything like it.
5. Basel Minster
Over 800 years Basel Minster has stood over the city, offering religious shelter for first catholics, later protestants. This afternoon it literally offers me shelter from a thunderstorm and hail. Sitting in silence with a mask covering my mouth and nose I take the time enjoy the Late Roman style of the side aisles and the stunningly colorful windows.
Good to Know
Parcandi: The easiest and probably cheapest way to park your car in Basel is with the parking app parcandi. Payment is by credit card only, once you finished parking.
Swiss Train System: If you want to travel through Switzerland for one day, you consider buying a saver day pass (from CHF 52 without a Half-Fare Card). It is valid on trains, trams, postbuses, and even boats.
Day 2 - Day hike to Le Moléson
After consulting meteo.swiss for about an hour, we finally decide to escape the bad weather in Basel and go day hiking in Canton Fribourg. It's a three hour drive by train, bus and funicular car to get to Plan Francey. The summit Le Moléson is still hidden in clouds. Nevertheless, we are excited - for me it's the first hike in the swiss mountains ever and Stefanie hasn't been here before.
The first part of the trail meanders along farm roads and switchbacks up to the peak. It's mostly cloudy but from time to time we are able to spot Lake Geneva in the distance. Wow! We can only imagine how it would look like on a sunny day. We rest at Le Moléson (2002 m) and then follow the trail to Teysachaux (1909 m). The up and down to the second peak is really steep, so watch your steps.
From Teysachaux, the trail steeply drops you into peaceful farms below. We come across cows, goats, chickens, pigs and mulis just before we have to make one more climb up to get back on the main hiking trail. From Plan Francey again, it's all downhill to Moléson-sur-Gruyères.
Hiking Details
Trailhead: 46.560124, 7.038553 (Moléson-sur-Gruyères)
Route: Plan Francey - Le Moléson - Teysachaux - Plan Francey - Moléson-sur-Gruyères
Difficulty: Medium (with steep parts).
A walk Through Fribourg
On our way back to Basel, we pass Fribourg and since we both haven't been there before, we decide to hop off the train, take a walk and get dinner in one of the many restaurants. A good choice. Fribourg is a charming medieval city with lots of nice buildings, little boutiques, eleven beautiful fountains (most of them built in the 16th century in rivalry to Bern) and 15 bridges spanning the river Sarine.
On Rue de Lausanne, we finally find us a nice restaurant and order a plate of grilled vegetables with gluten-free bread. It's delicious. And by the way: It's really nice to listen to waiters speaking French. That contributes to a great vacation feeling.
Day 3 - One Day in Lugano
The weather forecast for Basel on Sunday is even worse. We need another escape option. And, well, we find it 270 kilometers further south in the Ticino: Lugano. We take an early train and arrive in Lugano around ten o'clock. Though we are still in Switzerland, we immediately feel like being transported to a picturesque Mediterranean city (of course, Italy is not far but on the other side of Lake Lugano). The climate is mild and, yes!, the sun is shining. Lucky us!
Exploring Parco Ciani
If you ever plan to visit Lugano, make sure to make a stop at Parco Ciani, the city's green lung and just a short distance from the city center. The paths meander along the lakefront, adorned with flower beds and sculptures. That's the English part of the garden. Further down you will also find the Italian part (look for the playground) with lime and plane trees typical for Ticino woodlands. It is simply beautiful and if you come early in the morning, you will have the park almost to your own.
A Monte Brè Hiking Experience
Next on our list of things to do in Lugano: A hike to the summit of Monte Brè, often called the sunniest mountain in Switzerland. The trail starts a few meters down the station Cassarate (funicular up to and down the summit) and winds through the peaceful mountain forests. From time to time, you can catch a glimpse of the lake (Monte Brè is pretty dense with trees). I would highly recommend to wear good shoes as the path is steep and rocky. In case you wonder: It takes about two hours to hike from Lugano to the summit.
At the summit you will be rewarded with stunning views over Lake Lugano and the region. There are two restaurants in case you feel hungry after your hike (we did!). Both have terraces, of course, so you can eat and enjoy the views at the same time. We, however, take the bus back to the city and head to the "Ristorante Argentino" that offers gluten-free pizza.
Hiking Details
Trailhead: Right below the station Cassarate
Route: Lugano - Monte Brè
Difficulty: Medium
Dipping Feet Into Lake Lugano
After two gluten free pizzas and a couple of drinks, we feel ready to get our feet wet. Parco Ciani (yeah, we have been there in the morning) has a nice public spiaggia (=beach) where people can swim and sunbathe while enjoying the beautiful mountain view. In fact, it's so beautiful that we don't want to leave.
Marble and Frescoes at San Lorenzo
We end our day with a visit of the Cattedrale San Lorenzo (only a few steps from the main station). The masonry is mostly Romanic, while inside the church you find a lot of frescoes and Baroque decorations. One of the most beautiful pieces is the marble high altar.
