Day 2 - Košice and Spišský Hrad

The next morning, I feel the urgent need to fill my belly with an extra rich gluten free breakfast. So I do some research online and tada! I find a small café in Košice (German: Kaschau) - just another 120 kilometers to the east. That's the one! I jump into the car and am right on my way. In case you may wonder: No, I don't have enough of driving yet.

Košice is a really gorgeous city - the second largest in the country after Bratislava by the way. Its heart marks the huge St. Elisabeth's Cathedral, surrounded by old facades of pretty townhouses, which nowadays house cafés and shops. The history of Košice dates back to the 13th century, when German emigrants founded a small trading colony next to a Slavic settlement. Both merged and so came Košice to life.

Before I go looking for the café, I find my first mission right in front of the cathedral: climbing the North Tower. Over the years, I have climbed many towers: the Campanile in Florence, the Torre del Mangia in Siena, the Michel in Hamburg, the Blaue Turm in Bad Wimpfen. Time and again, it is grand to see the world lying at your feet, to discover unknown cities from a bird's eye view. What I didn't know upfront (and what may have kept me from climbing the North Tower) is that the stairs are extremely narrow (there is only room for one person on the stairs) and incredibly uneven and a railing is completely missing. Uff, that makes me sweat and I can honestly say that I've rarely been so relieved to have safely reached a viewing platform. Thank God, the decline is easier.

Back on the ground, I pay the cathedral a visit. It is the largest in Slovakia and a gem of Gothic architecture. The main altar consists of 48 individual images - which is quite impressive, isn't it? It's a shame though that there is no English information about the cathedral. So I missed to pay attention to the more than 50 gargoyles that are installed at the cathedral. All but one are in shape of animals. According to legend, one gargoyle has the face of the builder's wife who is said to have been devoted to wine. Her portrayal as a gargoyle condemned her to only spew water as long as the cathedral exists.

On my way back to the guesthouse, I pass one of the most impressive castles in Europe, Spiš Castle. It sits enthroned over the town of Spišské Podhradie like a bulwark - and has been for more than 800 years. Originally designed to secure the border of the Kingdom of Hungary, the fortress was later expanded to include palaces and knights' halls. Only a fire at the end of the 18th century ended life in the castle.

Again, it's one of my more spontaneous decisions to pay the castle a visit. I had not planned to do it. At least not today. But I am fascinated by the sheer size of the Spiš Castle. It covers almost four hectares (the equivalent of four large soccer fields). Some of the central parts are still under construction to preserve what's left of the medieval buildings. Inside, you can visit a small museum displaying torture devices, weapons, and armaments. The small chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary is also open for visitors. You might have heard of Elizabeth, the patron saint of the sick, the poor, orphans, and beggars. Elizabeth was the nice of Prince Koloman of Hungary who initiated the construction of the castle. And she was brought up at Wartburg Castle, Germany.

In the Middle Ages, drinking and eating habits were a bit different. Mushrooms, for instance, were only used by the poor and never served to noblemen. Drinking wine was a privilege for the rich, while the poor used to drink beer. Cooks loved to used flowers (roses, viola) to decorate their meals. They also used eggshells and added them to various meals.

Day 5 - Three Times World Heritage Sites

On previous trips I have usually not visited more than one World Heritage Site per day. Today, I'm setting a personal record by visiting three World Heritage Sites in a row: the medieval town Bardejov, the wooden church of Hervartov, and the historic town Levoča.

Bardejov was once located on one of the most important trade routes in Eastern Europe, which contributed significantly to the city's prosperity. Wealthy traders settled here and brought education. In the 14th century Bardejov even became a royal free city which came with certain privileges such as having its own executioner (a bronze figure still stands on the market square today and commemorates of that time).

As in Košice, I find influences from German colonization. This includes, for example, the rectangular arrangement of the market square, which is lined on three sides by townhouses and finally closed off by the Basilica of St. Giles. The Gothic church building dates back to the 13th century and has been through a lot over the centuries (severe fires and sieges). The striking church tower even collapsed twice and was only rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. Of course, I will not miss the opportunity to climb this tower either. The view is almost better than from the North Tower in Košice, because it reveals the linear architecture of the market square.

Day 6 - Slovak Paradise

Now that I've visited cities, churches, and museums, it's time to immerse myself in the Slovak nature. A hike in the High Tatras would actually be an obvious choice, but first I am drawn to the Slovak Paradise. Shortly after eight, I arrive at the car park Podzolek (costs: 3 €). I don't want to waste any time, so I buy a day ticket (1.50 €) for the national park and then set off straight into the gorge (Suchá Belá). I follow the green route, because it is reserved for the ascending ones.

The trail is one big adventure (and I immediatly love it!). It leads over wooden bridges and steel stairs over or along the river Belá. Sometimes water falls down the rock face, sometimes it flows roaringly below us. From time to time, I have to climb several meters on unsecured ladders upwards, which cause my heart rate to speed up and adrenaline to spin through me, while I am feeling really euphoric about the wonderful nature that surrounds me.

Monks in Paradise

When I get to the top, I puff like a locomotive. Wow, that was strenuous. I turn left and now follow the signs to “Klaštorisko, chata” (Carthusian monastery) (first yellow, then red route). The path is wide and gravel, so I can move forward quickly. I overtake a number of hikers (couples, families, loners) and then I am all alone again. That's exactly how I like to hike.

About half an hour later I reach a large clearing where the only excursion restaurant is located. I sit down at one of the benches and eat my picnic snacks. In the distance I can see the ruins of the Carthusian monastery, which was founded here in late 1299 in honor of the Blessed Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. Monks prayed, learned and worked here for almost 200 years. And they loved books - obviously even more than I do, because in each monastery cell once there was a desk with writing utensils so that they could devote themselves to copying and illuminating writings or to bookbinding. Every Sunday they were allowed to get ink, paper and pens.

The space that was most commonly used was the church. Even if not much is left of the former building, it is to some extent possible to imagine what the Gothic chapel once looked like. In front there was the chancel (the main altar still exists), as well as two side altars and a sacristy, from which a spiral staircase probably led to an archive. The church was divided into two areas with the help of a chancel screen: the brothers and donors stood in front, the priests in the back. There was no tower.

I arrive in time for the last guided tour of the day. Apart from me, only Slovaks and Czechs are waiting to enter the cave. Domica is a World Heritage Site for 25 years and as soon as we enter the cave all of the visitors are captivated by the gorgeous formations of stalactites on the roofs and stalagmites on the ground.

Domica cave is unique in several ways:

• Stalactites appear in the forms of shields and drums that are nowhere more common than here.

• Objects made of stone and bones from the Stone Age were found. The cave served as a place of residence and cult for people 35,000 years ago.

• Domica is home to 16 different bat species.

In the evening, I reward myself with a gluten free pizza at Pizzéria Utópia Poprad.

Day 7 - Dayhike in the High Tatras

On my last day in Slovakia, it's finally time for my first hike in the High Tatras. The small mountain range with its many peaks above 2000 meters is only 27 kilometers long and widely known as "small Alps". I can't wait to take one of the scenic hiking trails I have heard so much about.

It's five to seven when I arrive at the parking lot in Tatranská Polianka. I have to buy an incredibly expensive ticket (6 Euros) (I would call it usury!) before I can head straight for the mountains (green route). The first meters still lead along the road, but then the trail turns left into the forest. From now on it is only uphill implying best Cardio training with wonderful views. In the north the mountains peaks tower up, in the southwest the view opens into the wide valley. It's beautiful and peaceful. The trail is tough though: it is lined with stones, all of different sizes and at different distances. That makes it difficult to find a walking rhythm. But one hour and more than 600 meters of altitude later, I reach my first destination, the mountain lake Velické pleso (at 1650 meters of altitude).

I find myself a nice picnic spot, unpack some sandwiches and vegetables, while enjoying the view on the water, whose surface gently ripples in the wind. It can't hurt to refresh myself, after all, I know that at least another 300 meters of altitude have to be overcome if I want to reach the second mountain lake, Dhlé pleso.

The next section is even more strenuous. I wander over hill and dale. Every now and then I overtake other hikers, which I find amazing, because I feel like I'm on the move now like a snail. Harmless veils crawl up the mountain slopes in no time at all. What a show. And suddenly I get a glimpse of Dhlé pleso, shimmering in turquoise-blue-green and dominated on three sides by cliffs and stones.

At this point, I originally wanted to turn around and go back to my car but as I'm still fit and the weather conditions are just perfect, I continue steeply uphill. The last section (shortly before reaching Tanap) is even more climbing the rocks than hiking. But don't worry, it is secured by chains. Finally, I am standing on the Tanap plateau and enjoy the thrilling views into the mountain scenery. I'm glad I have a sweater with me, because an icy wind is blowing up here and I even discover snow fields on the rocky walls.